Tiruvarur Temple

7 March'2008:
Sri Thyagarajar Temple, is situated at Thiruvarur, a town which comes under thanjavur district of Tamilnadu. Tiruvarur is regarded as the 87th in the series of Tevara Stalams in Chola Nadu south of the river Kaveri. The origin of the shrine at Tiruvarur is steeped in antiquity. Of the two major shrines dedicated to Vanmikanathar and Tyagarajar, the Vanmikanathar shrine is the older one. It enshrines a Shivalingam - prithvi lingam made of earth. Two of the major legends surrounding the temple are associated with Manu Needi Cholan and Muchukunda Cholan respectively.Anecdotes referring to the lives of these legendary rulers are referred to in ancient Tamil literature such as Manimekalai and Silappadikaram.
Legend has it that Vishnu worshipped Shiva in the form of Somaskanthar, associated with the Ajapa Dance. Shiva is also said to have appeared in an anthill and restored Vishnu to life.
The image of Tyagarajar is the foremost of the 7 from which Indra is believed to have asked Muchukunda Cholan to pick the original image of Somaskandar worshipped by Mahavishnu. . Muchukunda Cholan picked the right one (the image at Tiruvarur) , and Indra rewarded him with all of the 7 images, which the latter installed at 7 different places within his territory, and it is these 7 temples which constitute the 7 Vitankastalams.
The image of Tyagaraja is housed in a separate sanctum with its own vimanam. An interesting feature of the image is that the bulk of it is covered with decorative cloth, flowers and jewelry, with only the faces of Shiva and Parvati being visible. Their feet are uncovered only on the occasion of the Paada Darisanam festival. The image of Tyagaraja in a special vimanam, presents an awe inspiring site. This image is taken out in procession during special occasions such as the chariot festival during the annual Bhrammotsavam. The Ajapa dance is enacted every time, the image of Tyagarajar is taken out in procession.
Ambal here is Kamalambika and the Tirtham is Kamalalayam. Sambandar,Appar, Sundarar have sung hyms here. Other shrines of importance here include those to Aingalakkaasu Ganapati, Vaatapi Ganapati, the Navagrahams aligned in a row. The Aingalakkaasu Ganapati is said to have been installed by Cheraman Perumaal Naayanaar who collected 5 measures of copper coins and fashioned this image. Vaatapi Ganapati represents the Stala Vinayakar of this shrine, enshrined in the southwest corner of the inner prakaram. Enshrined in the 2nd prakaram is a shrine to Rudra Durga.
Vithankar Abhishekam: We had the good fotune to be present in the temple to witness the Vithankar Abhishekam which started around 12 noon and lasted nearly 30 minutes.
History: This is a temple vibrant with the musical and dance traditions of the centuries. Tiruvarur was a great cultural center for the Cholas who extended great patronage here; mention must be made of especially of Raja Raja Chola I. Sundaramoorthy Naayanar is known for his close association with Tiruvarur. His shrine faces that of Tyagarajar.
Muthuswamy Deekshithar, Tyagarajar and Syama Sastri the trinity of Carnatic Music were born in Tiruvarur. Deekshithar in particular, while in residence at Tiruvarur composed several suites of Kritis addressed to Tyagarajar, Kamalambika and several other deities in this temple.
Architecture: The imposing towers of the temple can be seen from a distance. The vast prakarams feature several shrines to Shiva and his parivara devatas. The vast Kamalalayam tank is situated to the West of the temple complex; the tank and the temple, together command an awe inspiring spectacle. The Achaleswarar Temple (Tiruvarur Araneri) in the prakaram is another of the Tevara sthalams sung by the Nayanmars. Aarurparavaiyumantali is yet another Tevara sthalam located in the vicinity of this grand temple at Tiruvarur.
For more detailed information about the temple log on to : http://www.indiantemples.com/Tamilnadu/Tiruvarur/tiruvarur.html
And view the photo gallery at: http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/TiruvarurTempleTour

Tirumazhapadi-Thanjai Mamani

6 Mar'2008: Tirumazhapadi: After Tirupazanam & Tirukandiyur we headed back to Thanjavur for lunch at Gnanam. After an enjoyable South Indian Thali meal in cool airconditioned comfort we headed back to the IB to take some much needed rest. Late afternoon we headed towards Tirumazhapadi via Kandiyur. After crossing the bridge across the magnificent Cauvery we travelled along the banks of the same river & reached Mazapadi. While on the bridge I stopped over to take some splendid photographs of the revered Cauvery. While doing so some young school girls on cycles passed by and on request posed delightedly for photographs.

Mazhapadi is situated right on the Banks of the Cauvery. Some huge banyan trees greeted us at the entrance. The tall multi tiered Gopuram at the entrance is majestic. The Temple chariot is parked outside to be used only during festivals. As you enter you see a tall dwaja sthambam and a big nandi in front. Then you eneter through the inner gopuram and to your left there are sub shrines for suryan, chandran, aghora veera bhadrar,vinayakar & subramaniar. Then you enter a portico where you see two nandis one behind the other. This is a very rare feature. Around the garbha griha are sculptures of sapta matas & sapta kanyas. In the outer prakaram there is a long pillared pavilion containing statues of 63 nayanmars. There is colorful plaster cast of the nandikeswara wedding next to the dwarpal. There are also delectable sculpted figures of agastyar, mazhvadeswarar, nalwars outside the sanctum. On the West side gostham is Annamalaiyar and a small pillared portico has been constructed there. A very unique feature is four splendid nandis on a raised platform outside the brahma goshtam on the Northern side. The Vimanam is colorful & majestic. The ambal sannithi is an independent shrine located on the Northern side East facing. It seems to be a later addition. The entrance is through a colorfully painted pillared mandapam. It is surrounded by a coconut grove and the lakshmi tirtham lies on the East side. Tirumazhapadi is considered to be the 54th in the series of Thevara Stalams in the Chola kingdom located north of the river Kaveri. Tirumazhapadi is closely linked to Tiruvaiyaru through one of the annual festivals. Moolavar is Mazhuvaadeesar or Vajrastampeswarar. Ambal is Azhagammai.Theertham: Kollidam. Patikam :Sambandar, Appar,Sundarar. Legends: Several colorful legends abound in this shrine, known primarily for Shiva's Taandavam with the Mazhu vayudam (hence Mazhapadi) for Markandeyar. (Parasu Nartanapuram in Sanskrit). Purushamriga Munivar is said to have established a shrine for Shiva, and Bhrama in his inability to remove it referred to it as Vajrastamba Moorthy. Somaskandar is in the form of a monolithic stone image here & there are 2 shrines to Dakshinamurthy. Sundarar is said to have been reminded of this shrine in a dream. King Sibi is said to have been rid of his afflictions here, there are no Navagrahams, only 3 pits in front of the sanctum. The temple is a vast one with a seven tiered Raja gopuram. There are two shrines to Ambal here. The 100 pillared hall, the Somaskanda mandapam and the murals in the Natarajar shrine are of interest. The Cholas have contributed immensely to this shrine, as testified in the many inscriptions seen here. There are inscriptions from the time of the Pandyas, Hoysalas and the Vijayanagar emperors. Festivals: Bhramotsavam in the month of Masi. Nandi's marriage with Suyahambikai is celebrated in the month of Pankuni when Aiyarappar of Tiruvaiyaru crosses the Kollidam and arrives at Tirumazhapadi and conducts the wedding, in a grand ceremony. For photo album log onto:http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/Tirumazhapadi

Thanjai Mamani Koils: On our return from Mazhapadi darkness had fallen, however we decided to visit the Thanjai Mamani Temples which were enroute. These are a group of three temples considered to be one Divya Desam. The three deities are Veera Narasimhar, Manikundra Perumal & Neelamegha Perumal In all the three temple, Uthsavar is Sriman Narayanan. Lord Narasimha in sitting posture facing East with Thayar Thanjai Nayagi. Both were prathyaksham to Markandeyar. Manikundra Perumal in sitting posture facing east. Ambujavalli Thayar, prathyaksham to Markandeyar. Neelamegap PerumaL sitting posture facing east. Sengamalavalli Thayar both prathyaksham to Parasaramuni.
These temples are seperated by 200 meters from each other. The Lord presented Himself in the form of Narasimha to Dhatchagan (Thanjagan in Tamizh). Hence the name Thanjai. The Lord in Thanjai Mamani Kovil faces Thanjavur and called Thanjai Kaththalum Deivam (God who protects Thanjavur). At this place, Sri Nayinachariar (Son of Swami Desikan) established that Desika Prabandham is to be recited in all Divvyadesams during Anathanyana period (Periods when Divya Prabandham is not recited).
This place is situated in green and fertile landscape in the banks of Vennar River about 4 Kilometers from heart of Thanjavur in Thanjavur-Kumbakonam highway. Garuda Mahotsavam is held annually wherein Perumals of 22 Vaishnavite Tempels including the three Thanjai Mamani Temples give darshan on Garuda Vahanas to devotees in the four Raja Veedhis of Thanjavur. The 22 Garuda Vahanas go in a procession headed by Thiru Mangai Azhwar in Anna Vahanam.

Thirukandiyur - Tirupazanam

6 Mar'08
Divya Desam :
There are not many temples where the Great Trinity — Lords Narayana , Siva and Brahma — are worshipped in the same premises. In the Chozha country there are two holy places sanctified by Azhwars' hymns where there are temples for all the three Gods — in Uthamarkoil or Bhikshandarkoil, near Srirangam and in Thirukandiyur, near Thanjavur. Both these places are interlinked as Lord Siva was cured of a curse(Brahmahati Dosham) partially when He visited Uttamarkoil and fully when He visited Thirukandiyur. Lord Siva, pleased by the turn of events, built a temple for Lord Narayana and also built a temple for Himself, near it. Brahma was also housed in a separate temple nearby, but the temple got dilapidated in course of time and the idols of Brahma and Saraswati are kept in the Siva Temple. All the three temples are so situated that one can go round them at the same time. The place is known as Kandiyur or Kandana Kshetram as those who visit it and worship Lord Narayana and the Goddess there would be rid of all their sins including Brahmahathi Dosham. It is also known as Pancha Kamala Kshetram.
The temple, situated on a one-acre site between Kudamurutti and Vennar rivers, has two prakarams. It has a three-tier Rajagopuram facing east. After passing through Garudamandapam and Mahamandapam, one can worship Harasapavimochana Perumal in standing posture. The Utsavar is Kamalanathan. The holy water source of Kapala Moksha Pushkarani is on the western side of the temple. Just opposite to it is the Padma Theertham or Mahabali Theertham. There are shrines for Narasimha, Sudarsana, Andal, Azhwars and Desikar in the outer prakaram. The Goddess, Kamalavalli or Kamala Nachiyar, is housed in a separate shrine.
Thevara Sthalam: Sambandhar, Appar & Arunagirimathar have sung hymns here.Lord Siva's temple here is one of the Ashta Veeratta Sthalas and the fifth of the Sapta Sthanams. The Lord is known as Brahma Sirakandeeswarar, Veeratteswarar and Adhi Vilwavananathar. The Goddess is known as Mangala Nayaki. The holy tree is vilvam and the holy water source is Brahma Theertham.
On the 13th, 14th and 15th days of the Tamil month of Masi, the Sun's rays fall on the Sivalingam in the sanctum sanctorum. There are shrines for Bhairavar, Suryan, Vinayaka, Skanda, Ardhanareeswara and Vishnu Durgai. The goddess is housed in a separate shrine facing south. The temple belongs to the Chozha period. The same is the case with the Brahma Temple nearby, which is in a dilapidated condition.
Thirupazhanam: This is one of the Saptasthanams also known as Kadali vanam. Chandran(Moon) worshipped here. Moolavar is Abatsahayar & Ambal Perianayaki. Sthala Vriksham is Kathali Vazhai. Hymns were sung by Appar & Sambandhar. Temple nadai was closed when we visited hence we could not worship the deities. The entrance gopuram looked brightly painted possibly tirupani had been carried out in the recent past.
For photo album log on to:http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/TirupazanamTirukandiyur/photo#s5205437893246351714

Thiagaraja Samadhi & Thingalur

6 March'2008:
From Tiruvaiyaru temple we proceeded to Thiagaraja Memorial also in Tiruvaiyaru. Tiruvaiyaru is the birth place of Thyagaraja. Saint Thyagaraja was an extraordinary Carnatic Music composer and ardent devotee of Sri Rama. He is known as one of the Trinity of Carnatic Music the other two being Muthuswami Dikshitar & Syama Sastri. He composed several Kritis in various raghas. For Thiagaraja's biography log on to : http://www.bharatadesam.com/people/biographies/poets_composers/tyagaraja.php
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyagaraja
The Thiagaraja Aradhanai is held annually during January. During the festival, Pancharatna kritis of Saint Thiagaraja are sung by the musicians and the audience enthusiastically partake along with the musicians in rendering the kritis. Carnatic music finds prominence during the festival. It is believed that young musicians will be blessed with a melodious voice if they sing Thyagaraja's songs at his memorial.
We were extremely fortunate that at the time of our unplanned & unscheduled visit that day a small group of prominent musicians had gathered to sing Pancharatna Kriti on the occasion of Sivaratri led by P.S.Narayanaswamy, O.S.Arun and others along with a group of violinists & mridangists. After offerring worship to Saint Thyagaraja the performance began and we understand the program to go on through the day & the whole night. We stayed for a short while and left. For some delectable pictures taken on this occasion log onto : http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/ThiagarajaMemorial
Our next visit was to Chandrabhagavan Temple, Thingalur on the way from Thiruvaiyaru to Kumbakonam. around 25 Kms away from Thanjavur.
As chandran (moon) was very much handsome and legible, Daksha Prajapathi gave all his 27 daughters (Stars) in marriage to him. Instead of treating all of them alike, he neglected 26 wives and spent most of his time with the 27th wife Rohini . Daksha Prajapathi advised Chandran to treat all his 27 wives equally. But Chandran ignored him. Daksha Prajapathi got offended and cursed Chandran that he should suffer from a wasting disease. Chandran prayed to Lord Siva in Thingalur to save him from the curse. Saving him God ordered that Chandran should remain in the temple in Thingalur and should give relief to those, suffering from the ill effects of Chandran’s adverse placement in their horoscopes and offering prayers to him. So, such people who are affected by the adverse positions of Chandran in their horoscopes offer prayers to Lord Kailasanathar, Goddess Sri Periyanayaki and Chandra Bagavan (moon God), by offering prayers.

Tiruvaiyaru

6 Mar'08:
History: During the 1st Century BC, while Karikala Cholan was returning after his victory over Himachal, his Chariot got stuck at Tiruvaiyuru. He felt a powerful force. He cleared the forest area and dug into the earth on that spot and discovered a Siva Lingam, idols of Sakti Vinayakar, Muruga, Sapta Matas, Chandikeswarar, Suryan. He also found that a Yogi Appai Sittar had been doing penance. On the Yogi's advice he built a Temple on that spot. He also informed Karikala Cholan that the required funds could be found below the hoofs of Nandi.
The Yogi's hair had spread all around his head in a semi circle and because of this in this temple devotees are not allowed to circumambulate the Garbha Griha. 825-850 AD before the time of Nandivarman Pallava, tirupani was done and the temple arrangement was modified to Pallava Architecture.
985-1014 wife of Raja Raja I built the Ulagamagadeviswaram Temple ( Uttara or Vada Kailasam) and in 1014-1042 wife of Rajendra Chola I built the Dakshina or Ten Kailasam.
Krishna Raja Wodeyar is said to have constructed the outer prakaram walls. The marble pillars in the temple are of Chalukyan Architecture. The 3rd & 4th Prakaram walls and East Gopuram were built during Vikrama Chola period. Construction of a 100 pillar Mandapam was started in the North East but work stopped at basementr level. This was taken up again and completed by Acutappa Naicker and Murugan sannithi was installed. In 1937 Amman Koil tirupani was completed & several sculptured pillars around the garbha griha and a separate pillared mandapam were constructed by Deva Kottai Meyappa Chettiar. It is believed he went bankrupt after the kumbhabhishekam was completed in 1937. Another kumbhabhishekam was done at Tiruvaiyaru in 1971.
About the Temple: This temple is a Thevara Sthalam of great significance since Appar, Sambandar & Sundarar have all sung praises of the Lord. The Deity is called Ayyarappar or Panchanadeeswarar and the Ambal is Dharma Samvardini. This is also a Sapta Sthalam. As you enter through the main gopuram you see nandi and a double ganesa. Further inside just outside the Garbha Griha, you see a large image of Ganesha on the left & Subramania on the right at the entrance and also the two dwarpals - all images constructed from plaster.
In the first prakaram you find a pillared portico on the South side with spledid frescoes from Siva Puranas. On the West there is another pillared portico containing a series of Siva lingas & some other deities including an 'Avudai Vinayagar' apart from sub shrines for Ganesha, Subramania, Gajalakshmi. There is also a small portico on the South side called the Dhyana Mandapam which contained Panchabootha ligams representing agni, vayu, appu, akash & prithvi. Also a Chandrasekara Sannithi, Adi Vinayakar. It also contained the nava grahas. The Sivayoga Dakshinamurthy is of great significance here.
There is another larger outer prakaram popularly called the nada brahmam prakaram. To denote the primordial nature of Sound - Nada Bhrammam, there are spots in this temple designed to produce multiple echos. Other spots of significance are the shrines of Murugan , jorahareswarar, Agappei Sittar,Ambal Sannithi, Uttara Kailasam, Dakshina Kailasam, Surya Tirtham & Appar Kulam. Appar Kulam is a little distance from the temple.
We were extremely fortunate to witness the Puja of the 'maragatha lingam' which is normalyy kept locked in a steel safe & take out by the archakar just before the Puja.
Enjoy the photo gallery at : http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/Tiruvaiyaru & for more details about the temple like legends, festivals & other trivia log onto :
http://www.indiantemples.com/Tamilnadu/s050.html

Mariamman - Bangaru Kamakshi - Nisumbasudini

5-3-2008 : (cont'd)
Punnai Nallur : The Maratta rulers used to worship Mariamman. Once a Maratta ruler went to pilgrimage to Samayapuram Mariamman near Thiruchirappalli. After he returned to Thanjavur, Mariamman appeared on his dream and mentioned that She is residing at the Punnai forest 5 km East of Thanjavur. The King went and saw a white-ant hill (Putru) and started building a temple around it. The Maratta rulers Thulaja, Serfoji also worshipped and constructed the temple. The Great saint Sadhasiva Brammendra swamy shaped the ant hill into the form of Mariamman and also installed a powerful Chakra. For more details log on to : http://www.kumbakonam.info/punnai/punnai6.htm
Bangaru Kamakshi : Bangaru Kamakshi Temple is one of the popular religious sites in Thanjavur. The temple enshrines Goddess Kamakshi Amman as the presiding deity.
The idol of Bangaru Kamakshi is made of pure gold- covered with a 'Gold Kavacham' except the face. The ‘Kavacham’, made with Panchaloha, is removed for eleven days in a year for ‘Abishekam’ which is the main festival in the temple. Panchaloha is an alloy of five metals - gold, silver, copper, brass and iron. It is widely used for making idols and statues The face of the goddess is covered with 'punugu', which is black in color and so the idol looks as though made of stone. It is believed that Bangaru Kamakshi came from Kanchi Kamakshi's third eye.
Vadabhatrakali Temple : This one of the several Devasthanams belonging to the Thanjavur Palace. Located at East Gate, Thanjavur. The Goddess is Nisumbasudani. Saivite Bronze of Nisumbasudani is displayed at Chennai Museum. Height 75cm. 10th Centuary AD. The Goddess is destroying the demon Nisumbha. She is represented in an eight-armed figure. The "Image is portraying considerable vigour"- Raudra-cum-Saumya expression. The Devi's left hand is in Kataka mudra, holding the trident. The other hands hold-cobra, sword, shield, bow, bell, dagger and skull cup. The right ear-ring is a human form, while the left ear carries an owl.

Big Temple, Thanjavur

5 March'2008 : We left Coimbatore early morning, crossed Air Force Base Sulur & Palladam & reached Karur around 9.00 am & stopped at Anandha Bhavan for breakfast. Our next halt was Mukkombu, a tourist get away spot around 18 Kms before Trichy. Here the Cauvery is the widest and is known as "Akhanda Cauvery". We then cross Trichy, and the magnificent Rock Fort temple came into glorious view in clear weather & I could not resist the temptation to stop and shoot. We then get onto the Thanjavur road,cross the sprawling BHEL campus on one side & their huge residential Colony - Kailasam Colony, drive past the National Institute of Technology (previously known as REC, Trichy), cross Tiruverumbur temple ( a thevara sthalam where Lord Erumbeswarar is situated atop a hill & visible from the road) & travel North 5 Kms, reach Thuvakkudi & turn left and travel around 4 Kms on a kuccha road to reach Tirunedungalam, a Thevara Sthalam.
The deity here - Nityasundareswarar or Nedungalanathar is East facing & Ambal Oppilanayaki is south facing. The two holy tirthams are - Agastya Tirtham & Sundara Tirtham. Vilvam is the Sthala Vriksham. Sambandhar has sung here. The"Panaka Neivedyam" ( Jaggery dissolved in water flavoured with cardamom & dry ginger plus a dash of lime) offerred to Karuppannaswamy at the Sundara Tirtham is believed to have curative powers. A unique feature is a bronze horse near the sanctum. An Oral (stone mortar) from Chozha times - is used for pounding turmeric paste for applying to Varahi. Another distinctive feature is that Surya has two wives here & all Navagrahas are facing Suryan & his consorts. Dakshina murthy is also in unique Yogic pose.
We reach Thanjavur around 1.30 pm & drive to the Circuit House where we check in to the cool comfort of an A/c suite. We hungrily wolf down molakapady laced idlies & thair satham with mor molagai & pickles.
Big Temple : Around 3.30 pm we visit the most important objective of our trip - the Brihadeeswara Temple also known as Peria Koil or Big Temple. The temple is surrounded by a strong fort wall with a moat on the outside. The majestic Vimanam is distinctly visible from a distance. Entry to the temple is through an imposing gateway on the east, on either side of which stand two small shrines dedicated to Ganapathi and Mururgan.We pass through another Gopuram 90 feet high which leads to the outer prakaram . Here we see the temple elephant Perianayaki feeding & the mahout besides her. A second and more magnificent Gopuram leads into the inner prakaram.You have suddenly entered into an amazing, awe inspiring & surreal world of immense indescribable beauty. You are transported back a thousand years into a bygone era when Raja Raja Chozhan ruled South India. The main sanctum where Iswara is installed is a tall & imposing edifice carrying a grand Vimanam which is perhaps one of the most magnificent works of art & architecture that man has ever created. To me it is a wonder of the world . The inner prakaram is a sprawling campus and there is a paved walkway around the temple measuring 250 ft wide & 500 ft long. As you enter through the gopuram you first see the great Big Nandi installed in a huge mandapam on a raised platform & a tall copper covered majestic dwaja sthamban in front of the temple. A flight of steps takes you into the sanctum of Brihadeeswara - a tall Shivalingam or Peruvudaiyar - set in a two storeyed sanctum. This is the greatest, biggest, tallest Shivalingam I have ever seen & perhaps the biggest in existence. You exit the sanctum from the South & immediately climb up a flight of stairs to pray at the shrine of Dakshinamurthy. As you circumambulate you see shrines of Vinayaka, Karuravar, Subrahmanya, Chandikeswarar and finally that of goddess Peria Nayaki or Brihannayaki. The skill & beauty of the architecture & sculptures at each shrine keeps you spellbound & wondrous. You pinch yourself to make sure you are on earth - you could well be in Indralogam. The perimeter of the inner prakaram houses long pillared corridors, which abound in murals, Shiva Lingams and Nandis. To the South of the Nandi Mandapam is a raised stone platform which is used for dance & music performances. In fact we have landed on a Sivaratri day - and abhishekam was being performed on the Grand Nandi. A good crowd had gathered to witness the same on the occasion of Pradosam. People sat and watched in a disciplined manner. There was no pushing or jostling for space. It was a grand & captivating spectacle & we were very fortunate to be present for this festive occasion.
We then left to tour some other local temples but returned again after dinner - to a well lit Vimanam & Nandi. Weather was cool,pleasant & breezy. A Natya Vizha was in progress - to last week long beginning Sivaratri. We located a bench & sat opposite the softly illuminated Vimanam - it looked magical & mystical. We gazed silently - completely hypnotised & mesmerised. The experience was simply awesome. Wow ! For picture gallery go to web album :http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/BigTemple
For more technical information, legends, historical facts & descriptions log onto :
http://www.thanjavur.com/bragathe.htm

Thanjavur Temple Tour

We undertook the our first temple tour to Trichy during January'2008 which has been documented with photographs in my Blog.(See archives Jan'08). We decided to take a second trip this month - 5-9 March'08. This time we travelled to Thanjavur, Tiruvarur,Nagapattinam & Pondicherry Districts which abounds in Tevara Sthalams & Divya Desams. In 5 days of hectic road travel we covered 31 temples & one Church (Velankanni). This included six out of seven Vidanga Sthalams. We halted two nights each at Thanjavur & Tiruvarur. At both places we stayed at the Circuit House where we had made prior reservations through the respective Collectorates.
The primary objective of this trip was to see the Big Temple (Siva) at Thanjavur, Tiruvaiyar Panch Nadeeswarar, Tiruvarur Thiagarajar & then try and see as many temples as possible in the Thanjavur/Tiruvarur belt. The Big temple is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating monuments I have seen & an architectural marvel. Big Temple was holding a dance & music festival for one week starting sivaratri day - reputed dancers like Padma Subramaniam were amongst the performers. Tirunallar Saneeswar was not in our original plan but we made it on the penultimate day. At Tiruvaiyar we went to the Thiagarajar Samadhi and received an unexpected treat - a group of reputed Carnatic musicians (singers, mridangists, flutists) had gathered to sing 'pancharatam' on occasion of Sivaratri.
The travel was overall comfortable - Mornings & evenings were cool but afternoons had become considerably warmer as compared to our January trip.
The most unique feature of this trip was the abundance of large water tanks (tirthams) in all the temples & the innumerable lotus & lily ponds we sighted throughout our journey in Thanjavur & Tiruvarur belt. Incredibly there was a pond at intervals of every 100 meters (no I am not exaggerating). This can probably be entered into the Guinness Book of Records ! And added to that miles & miles of irrigated rice fields - after all Thanjavur was once considered the Rice Bowl of India. Virtually all temples were carrying large quanties of grains received from temple lands - for want of storage space these grains were temporarily stocked in the swami & ambal sannithis
We also stopped by briefly at Mukkombu on the Karur Trichy Route (18 kms before Trichy) - where the mighty Cauvery branches in two - Cauvery & Kollidam (or Coleroon). The Upper Anicut,which facilitates this,was built by Karikala Cholan around 2000 years ago. These two rivers encompass Srirangam turning it into an island before they meet again at Kallanai or Grand Anicut. This is an immensely beautiful place & serves as a sanctuary for a weekend getaway.
We were keen to visit Vedaranyam Wild Life Sanctuary but could not make it due to time constraints. Temple by Temple details will follow in subsequent blogs. Meanwhile readers can view some of the select & fascinating photographs taken during the trip at : http://picasaweb.google.com/ramakrishnan49/ThanjavurTemplesTour

North Kerala Tour

Fishing Boats at Mahe Harbour

Thalayi beach - Fishing nets under repair

Thalayi Beach - Boat with fishnets ready to take off

Thalayi Beach - Tellicherry

Muzhappilangad Beach

Muzhappilangad Beach

Avinashi Tours - Avinashilingeswarar - Tirumruganathar

Sunday,3 Feb’08 :Visit to Avinashi & Tirumuruganpoondi
Left Coimbatore around 6.40 am & reached Avinashi by 7.30 after covering a distance of close to 60 Kms – The Avinashilingeswarar temple is just off the highway. This is a Tevara Sthalam - one amongst seven in Kongunadu - sung by Tamil saint Sundarar. The tirthams associated with this temple are Airavata Theertham & Kasi Gangai Theertham. The stone Dwajasthambam outside was partially covered & the majestic Rajagopuram fully covered for tirupani (renovation). The base of the Dwajasthambam carries sculptures of the legend associated with this temple – the crocodile regurgitating a fully grown boy & Sundarar praying to Siva. Entry into the temple is through the huge doors of the Rajagopuram. Just before entry is a Pillayar on your left & an Uchi pillayar etched in the Rajagopuram just above the doors. You walk through the Rajagopuram into the Navaranga mandapam which carries exquisite sculptures on pillars – Urdhvatandavar, Alangattu Kali, Veerabhadrar. There is a second Dwajasthambam inside the prakaram. Then you enter the inner sanctum & pray to Moolavar – Avinashilingeswarar who is east facing ( Avinashi means non destructible).To the North on a raised manadapam is the Kanakasabhai with Natarajar in dancing pose with his feet firmly crushing Muyalavan.
The Ambal Karunambikai sannithi also east facing, is situated on the southern side – to the right of Avinashi Appar. There is a separate gopuram for Ambal sannithi. The multi-pillared mandapam outside Ambal sannithi also has many fine sculptures. Behind the Ambal Sannithi (near koshtam) you can see a sulpture of a scorpion – said to effectively cure you of poisonous bites. This is a unique feature.
There is a theppakulam (completely dry when we visited) outside (opposite Ambal sannithi) with a Nandi mounted at the entrance. A little distance away is a separate shrine for Sundarar.
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Our next destination was Tirumuruganpoondi around 5 Kms frm Avinashi on the Tiruppur Road.(Enroute we saw the Koopidu Pillayar shrine pointing out the direction of the temple to Sundarar - visible from the road, situated on a small hillock to your right.)
Moolavar is Tirumuruganathaswamy (Skanda Natheswarar) & Ambal is Avudayanayagi (Lingabhooshana Stananbika). This is another of seven Tevara Sthalams in Kongunadu & sung by tamil saint Sundarar. There are many legends associated with this temple. According to one legend, Lord Murugan got Brahmahathi dosham after killing the demon king Soorapadman. To get rid of this dosham, Murugan erected a Shivalingam at this place and worshipped Lord Shiva. Durvasar is said to have brought the Madhavi tree sthala vriksham from Karpaka Lokam. Sundarar & Cheraman Perumal upon arriving here lost their wealth to a group of hunters; upon singing his patikam recovered the lost wealth. There are 2 images of Sundarar here depicting his state of mind prior to and after the incident with an image of Lord Shiva watching.
This temple is west facing and there is no gopuram in front as in other temples. Before you enter the moolavar sanctum you see Vinayagar to your left & statues of Sundarar to your right. To the right side of the sanctum there is a statue for Shunmugha with consorts Valli & Devayani. There is a mirror behind the idol for viewing the 6th face of Shunmugha.To the left side of the moolavar lies the shrine for Ambal Aavudainayagi.
As you circumambulate the outer prakaram on the North East corner you find sanctums for Saniswarar & Navagrahas west facing, Bhairavar (facing South) & vetupari in front ( the stolen wealth was hidden here by the Lord), Suryan west facing, separate shrine of Dakshinamurthy south facing (this is a unique feature), Bhavaniswarar east facing, & finally 63’ars on the West side.
The Dwajasthambam, as you enter the temple,has sculptures depicting Siva as the hunter (vettuvan) with bow & Sundarar.To the South of the temple lies the Gnana Tirtham in picturesque settings. Natarajar is in Brahma Tandavar pose - the Kanaka Sabhai was closed hence could not view Natarajar. There is a second dwaja sthambam inside.
This temple is under the administration & maintenance of Archaelogical Society of India. There are several inscriptions on the sanctum walls which is a unique feature.
Close to this temple, a few yards away, lies the Maadeswarar - Mangalambika temple - considered to be the original Tirumuruganpoondy temple; Sundadarar is said to have sung praises of this temple. A large Nandi - visible from a distance substitutes the traditional gopuram atop a mandapam situated in front of the shrine. The moolavar is east facing & Ambal is on the north side also east facing. On either side of moolavar sanctum are Vinayakar & Balamurugan. Behind the Shivalingam on the granite wall is a stone sculpture of an elephant offering prayers to the Lord. The archakar took special pains to explain this to us. As you circumambulate the prakaram you see Vinayakar Sannithi east facing on south west corner & a Ketu Sannithi also east facing on the north west corner & Navagrahas shrine in north east corner.
The Vimanan of moolavar has many colourful sculptures displaying several legends.
a) Sundarar with blissful expression having received his lost belongings b) Durvasa Muni offering prayers c) Ketu offering prayers to Siva.

Trichy Tours - Tiruparaithurai-Pasupatiswarar-Vennaimalai

Mukkombu : This was the final day of our temple tour. After yet another round of Murali coffee,we left Trichy around 6.30 am back on the Karur Road. We reached Mukkombu a picnic spot 18 kilometers from Tiruchirappalli. It is the place where the River Kollidam branches off from the river Cauvery. The place is also known as Upper Anaicut. The dam is about 685 meters long. It was constructed in the 19th Century across the Kollidam. The place attracts tourist because of the park, greenish garden science park, toy train, merry go round, fishing facility, and boating facility.
Tirupparaitturai : Located around 7 Kms from Mukkombu, we reached the abode of Paraitturai Nathar or Dharukavananathar, a tevara sthalam of Chozhanadu South of Kaveri. Praises sung by Sambandar & Appar.The Ambal is Pasum Pon Nayaki or Hemavarnambika. This shrine is located on the banks of the Akhanda Kaveri -the widest point in the course of the river. Kubera, Saptha Rishis & Indra have worshipped Shiva here. The Lord is said to have crushed the ego of the rishis in Dharukavanam here. The Shivalingam is said to have been dug out of an ant hill by a devout Chola King, upon his seeing a golden bird frequently flying by it.
you enter the temple through the raja gopuram at the entrance, There is a stone mandapam & the tell dwaja sthambam is right in front. The mandapam carries scultures of Appar,Sambandar, Manickavasar & the Chettiar who renovated the temple. There are shrines for Vinayakar & Dhandapani in the outer prakaram. You enter the prakaram through a second gopuram & reach the east facing moolavar. Innner prakaram contains shrines/idols - Valamburi Vinayakar, Sapta kanyas, 63'ars, Somaskandar, Mahaganapathy,Panchalingam,Arumughar,Bhikshadanar, Brahma, Durgai,Gajalakshmi, Shanmughar seated on a peacock, Navagrahas, Bhairavar. In the Koshtam you have sculptures of - Vinayagar, Dakshinamurthy(South), Ardhanariswarar(West), Brahma,Durgai (North) & a sannithi for Sandikeswarar. Ambal is south facing. The pillars opposite ambal contains sculptures of Urdhvathandavar & Kali in dancing pose.
Karur Pasupatiswarar : This temple is regarded as the 7th of the seven Tevara Stalams in the Kongunadu. Saint Tirugnana Sambandar, the great Siddha, Karuvurar and Saint Arunagirinathar have sung in praise of the deities at this Temple.The moolavar is a Swayambhu lingam - Pasupateeswarar or Anilaiappar. The Lord has two consorts, Goddess Kripanayaki (Alankaravalli) – the Adinayaki with a Srichakra Pitham at Her feet and Goddess Soundaranayaki (Vadivudaiyal), a great devotee who is believed to have merged with the Lord on the 7th day of the Panguni Uthiram festival.

The Sthala vriksham is vanji & tirtham is Amaravati.
Kamadenu (divine cow) worshippped the Lord here. During the worship, the feet of Kamadenu touched the Lord’s head, the symbol of which is still on the Linga. The Lord was also worshipped by Brahma who did penance here in atonement for his haughtiness as the primordial Creator.
It is believed that Siddha Karuvurar dissolved himself with the Lord. He has a shrine in the Southwest corner of this temple.

This Sthalam is associated with the two great Nayanmars Eripatthar and Pukhazcholar. They worshipped here and their history is very well detailed in Periyapuranam. Arunagirinaathar sang about 9 'Thirupugal's’ in praise of beautiful Lord Muruga here.
Emperor Musukunda, belonging to the Skanda Mahapurana period is believed to have undertaken renovation of the temple.
Vennaimalai :The Balasubramanyaswami temple at Vennaimalai is an ancient one, revered by the Tiruppugazh hymns of Arunagirinathar, although its current structure is a recent one.
Vennaimalai is located near Karur near Tiruchirappalli. The temple is built on a small hill and it enshrines Balasubramanyar, Kasi Viswanathar and Visalakshi. The festivals of significance here are Skanda Sashti in the tamil month of Aippasi, Thai Poosam and Aadi Krittikai.